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Hassan, Belur
& Halebid
Please call (559) 446 0499 or email brij@indiatravelerusa.com for booking a tour of Hassan, Belur & Halebid
Hassan is 187
kilometer or 116 miles from Bangalore, the capital of Karnataka State. Belur
is 38 kilometer or 24 miles northwest of Hassan. Halebid, formerly called
Dwar Samudra is another 17 kilometers or 11 miles northeast from Belur.
Belur is often referred to as Dakshina Varanasi or the Varanasi of
the southern India.
There is a
popular legend that Sa la, the head of the clan once faced a
tiger. His companions who must have been at a safe distance said Hoy
Sa la meaning strike Sa la. Sa’la struck the tiger and
killed him. The clan thus got its name Hoysala. The first
known ruler of the Hoysala Dynasty that this clan established was
Nripa Kama who reigned from 1000 to 1045. Vinayditya I
followed him from 1045 to 1098. The third Hoysala ruler, Ereyanga,
ruled from 1098 to 1100. Ballala followed him from 1100 to
1108. The fifth Hoysala ruler, Vishnuvardhana ruled from 1108
to 1142. Narasimha I succeeded him from 1142 to 1173. The
seventh Hoysala ruler was Veera Ballala II who ruled from 1173
to 1220. Narasimha II followed him from 1220 to 1235. The next
Hoysala ruler was Veera Someshwara from 1235 to 1253.
Narasimha III and Ramanatha followed him from 1253 to
1295. The last Hoysala ruler was Veera Ballala III who ruled
from 1295 to 1342.
The Hoysala
Dynasty’s period of their 346 year rule is considered as the second most
prosperous and powerful era in the history of Karnataka next to the powerful
Vijayanagar Empire. These rulers were initially inspired by Jainism but from
the Vishnuvardhana’s period onwards they were all Vaishnava Hindus and were
great patrons of the temple architecture of Belur, Halebid and Somanathpura.
The Dynasty encouraged the teaching and learning of both the native Kannada
and the classical Sanskrit languages. Literature in both languages
flourished during their reign. Hoysala Dynasty rulers were great patrons of
arts, literature and temple architecture. During their rule some of the
greatest Kannada poets like Rudrabhatta, Janna, Harihara and Raghavanka
flourished. The exquisite workmanship on a massive scale was the hallmark of
their temple architecture in Belur, Halebid, Somanathapur, Arasikere and
Amritapura in the Karnataka State and Tiruvannamalai in Tamil Nadu. To
assert their power in their entire kingdom, they minted coins called Honnu
weighing 62 grains in Gold, Pana that was a tenth of Honnu, Haga that was a
quarter of Pana and Visa that was a quarter of Haga. Coins called Bele and
Kani also circulated in this period.
Originally
they served as subordinates to the Chalukya Dynasty rulers of Kalyani.
Gradually they increased their influence to eventually assert sovereignty by
defeating the Chalukyas. They ruled from Halebid in the beginning for about
150 years but when their capital was repeatedly invaded and was almost in
ruins, they decided to move to Belur. At the peak of their power
Vishnuvardhana conquered Gangavadi region from the Chola Dynasty. He
built the Vijayanarayana Chennakeshva Temple at Belur to
commemorate this important victory. Katamalla, the commander of his army had
the Hoysaleshwara Temple in Halebid constructed.
Vishnuvardhana nonetheless could not overthrow the Chalukya rulers.
His dream was fulfilled by his grandson, Veera Ballala II. He
freed himself from imprisonment and finally defeated the last Kalyani
Chalukya ruler, Someshwara IV at Soraturu in 1189. Veera
Ballal II defended the kingdom successfully against Pandya rulers of
Tamil Nadu and the original city of Bangalore was established under his
patronage. Hoysala kingdom expanded further in the reign of his son.
Narasimha II, the seventh Hoysala ruler conquered Tiruvannamalai in
Tamil Nadu to make it his winter capital. The grandson of Narasimha II,
Veera Ballala III was the first Hindu ruler who could unite
most of south India under his rule and could thwart the aggression of
Bahamani Sultans. He died in the battle of Madurai in 1343. His sons,
Harihara (Hakka) and Bukkaraya (Bukka) established the
Vijayanagara Empire.
Belur
was once the capital of a powerful empire on the banks of River Yagachi.
Belur's main temple, Vijayanarayana Chennakeshava Temple is
dedicated to Lord Krishna and set in a compound with several smaller
temples and a pond. In 1117 Vishnuvardhana started its construction that
continued for more than a hundred years. This was a period when the north of
India was suffering the destruction of temples and all the sculptors and
temple artisans were out of work. They faced a choice of either working for
the Islamic conquerors or migrating to the south where there was still royal
patronage for temple construction. These migrating sculptors and artisans
found work in the Hoysala kingdom in Karnataka. They brought with them the
north Indian style of temple architecture and blended it with the prevailing
architecture of southern India. The Vijayanarayana Chennakeshava Temple in
Belur is a unique example of this mixed architecture. Janaka Acharya is
believed to be the chief architect of this temple. Contrary to Indian
tradition, these Hoysala sculptors signed their work at this temple. It is
built around a single main shrine with a magnificent pillared mandapa
chamber, bell shaped pillars in an overall star shaped plan. In the central
chamber there are intricately carved Jaali (screens) to provide privacy.
There is a circular stone platform floor in the pillared Mandapa that is
highly polished with hundreds of years of Devdasis (temple dancers)
performing the ritualistic and devotional Bharata Natyam temple dance of
southern India. Within the walled compound of this temple there are other
smaller temples also.
The
Hoysaleshwara Temple in Halebid
is even larger and again very unique in its architecture. Here the architect
planned two identical temples parallel to each other and connected them
together at their transepts. The raised plinth of this temple is filled with
rows of sensuous sculpture in the form celestial dancers, a variety of
animals, vegetation and many other objects. Percy Brown contrasted the
Halebid Temple with Parthenon as two extremes of the architectural art of
the world. While the Parthenon has the cold purity of form, the Halebid
Temple explodes in warm complexity of its sculptural architechtonics.
It is definitely the finest example of Hoysala temple architecture.
One of the
temples houses the Vishnuvardhana Hoysaleshwar Linga and the
other temple across the common broad “Navaranga” transept houses the
Shanthaleshwara Linga. The Nandi Mandapa is located in
its typical place at the entrance in front of the temple. Behind this
Mandapa is the shrine dedicated to Surya, the sun god and has
an impressive almost seven feet high idol. The temple doorways are also very
intricately carved. There are narrations of episodes from the ancient Hindu
epics Ramayana, Mahabharatha and Bhagwata in rows of carvings on the outer
walls. Kedareshwara Temple is the other interesting temple in
the area that was built under the patronage of Ketaladevi, the
queen of Ballala II.
There are no
hotels in Belur and Halebid. Most visitors stay in Hassan and take a short drive to
Belur and Halebid from there.
3-star
hotels:
Hoysala
Village Resort, Hassan – 33 rooms
Hotel Southern Star, Hassan – 48 rooms
Hassan Ashok Hotel - 23 AC rooms, 1 AC suite & 22 non-AC rooms
Distance
from Hassan in Kilometers and Miles:
Hassan: 50 Kilometers or 31 Miles
Belur:
38 Kilometers or 24 Miles
Halebid: 55 Kilometers or 35 Miles
Bangalore: 187 Kilometers or 116 Miles
Mysore: 115 Kilometers or 72 Miles
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